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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.